I had a client site using banners, configured to register clicks on each banner. The client discovered that sometimes clicks was not registered on the correct banner. Initially it looked like banners with the same target link (URL) was registered on the banner with the lowest ID. This turned out to be misleading.
The cause was a SEF plugin called JoomSEF. This plugin handled the URL:s also for banners routing the clicks to the wrong banner.
The solution was to exclude Joomla banner component from being handled by JoomSEF:
Go to Components -> JoomSEF -> Manage Extensions
For Banners, click to the right so it displays Default Joomla router under Active Handler
After doing some updates of my Anytone D878UV and D578UV DMR radios I had an annoying problem where the talkgroup field was empty in the last call list as well as in the last call “ticker” scrolling by on top of the screen, just showing an empty “TG:”.
It turned out the problem was caused by the digital contact list that I had generated on radioid.net. I had generated the list with the “TG” checked which generates a contact list including all Brandmeister talk groups. Seems very practical but the problem is that the name field for the talk groups are empty and it seems that Anytone has priority to display the talkgroup info from digital contact list, if it exists, above the info from the talk groups list.
Solution was to generate the digital contact list from radioid.net without checking the TG.
https://media01.nerdia.net/uploads/IMG_20220708_143917.jpg23041728Stefan Helanderhttps://media01.nerdia.net/uploads/nerdia-logo-340x156.pngStefan Helander2022-07-09 09:15:472022-07-09 09:15:49Anytone D878UV/D578UV last call talkgroup empty
Sometimes it can be handy to create virtual com port pairs or virtual null modem using software. There are several solutions available, free and paid. The commercial softwares do work but with prices like 130 USD it is a bit out of range for a hobby project.
However, I found a project called com0com which is free. This software works well with Windows 10, both 32 and 64-bit versions available.
https://media01.nerdia.net/uploads/virtual_com_port_windows10.png383439Stefan Helanderhttps://media01.nerdia.net/uploads/nerdia-logo-340x156.pngStefan Helander2022-07-08 08:49:132022-07-08 08:49:14Virtual com port / serial port for Windows 10
In an earlier post I described my experiences with the HyEndFed 5 band antenna but for several reasons I decided to quickly replace it with the 8 band version for 10/12/15/17/20/30/40/80 meters.
The reasons for this was, for one thing, that I soon discovered that I was missing the WARC bands for different reasons. One of them is contests. Contests are fun – when you are participating. When not, it makes the bands very hard to use. You will have a hard time finding non contest stations and sometimes I just switched the radio off, waiting for the contest to be over. The WARC bands are contest free and became my go to bands during contests.
Another reason for replacing the 5 band antenna was that it is rated for 200 watts SSB PEP. Nothing more than that is mentioned on their website when it comes to power. It was when unpacking the antenna, reading the instructions, I realized this means 30 watts limit for CW and DIGI-modes. It would have been very nice to mention this on the website as well. I am doing about 98% of my QSO:s in CW and I like to be able to use my rig’s full 100 watts of power.
The third reason I initially choose the 5 band antenna was it’s length – 23 meters. This is just about the size I can fit in on my property. But at the time considering a new antenna, I realized that endfed half waves (EFHW) actually doesn’t have to be installed in a straight line. Bend it like Beckham 🙂 It can be installed in an angle for example. The radiation pattern will of course suffer but they still work. The 8 band antenna is 40 meters long, so to fit it in, I must install it in an angle.
So I decided to replace it with the 1 kW model of HyEndFed 8 band antenna. I used the same fur tree as a fixing point, but insted of having the end at the tree, I now has a bend. I selected the 1 kW model to be able to cope with my 100 watts CW. The model chosen was the one with aluminium plate and strand relief on the plate.
I can use the antenna on most bands without a tuner but I do actually use my ICOM AT-180 on most bands to get the SWR down to as close as 1:1. With the AT-180 it actually also tunes on 160 meters but my QRM levels on that band are so high so I haven’t tried it in a QSO yet.
It have worked all other bands with the antenna I am quite happy with it, and considering it is a multiband antenna I think it is a very good compromise.
https://media01.nerdia.net/uploads/IMG_20220706_133047-scaled.jpg19202560Stefan Helanderhttps://media01.nerdia.net/uploads/nerdia-logo-340x156.pngStefan Helander2022-07-06 12:33:462022-07-06 12:33:47My experience with HyEndFed 8 band antenna – bend it like Beckham…
A client was developing a Joomla site and had set it to Offline mode. In order to have a beta test group access the site for evalutation and tests, they had created a user account for the group and set it to Registered. The permissions for Registered users was set to Allow Offline access. At this moment the offline page was not showing up anymore for non-logged in users, i.e. anyone could access the site.
It turns out, bug in Joomla or not, that if you allow offline access for the Registered group the offline mode will stop working. The beta test group had to be put under Guests and allowing offline access to that group instead.
Go to System -> Global Configuration
Click on the Permissions tab
Click on the Registered user group
https://media01.nerdia.net/uploads/joomla_offline_mode_not_working.png3961131Stefan Helanderhttps://media01.nerdia.net/uploads/nerdia-logo-340x156.pngStefan Helander2022-06-27 07:36:272022-06-27 07:42:36Joomla offline mode not working [solution]
I purchased a new, unused Nagoya RB-400 lidmount antenna mount from a seller on eBay. After a couple of days of use, I was going to adjust the angle using the hexagon socket screw. When unscrewing it, a part of the mount just fell off (see photo).
I did not overload the mount (largest antenna used while driving was a 65 cm whip). Did I overtight the hexagon scew? Obviously 🙂 I’m quite used to dealing with mechanical stuff and I applied a resonable force while tighting it, to keep the antenna upright while driving but not really enormous force.
I guess it was a manufacturing fault but getting it replaced from the eBay seller would cost me a great part of the price as a new one as the seller policy for returns was that the buyer pays the return cost. Worst case is that it was a construction issue and in that case I will probably soon end up with the same result. I didn’t want this to be bothering me anymore.
Instead I went to a local ham shop and bought another (more expensive) brand and the RB-400 went into the trash.
Anyone else who have experiences like this with the RB-400? My experience with Nagoya products so far is not impressing (see my article on RB-66 rusting scews), so I will probably avoid them in the future.
https://media01.nerdia.net/uploads/Nagoya_RB-400_in_pieces-scaled.jpg19202560Stefan Helanderhttps://media01.nerdia.net/uploads/nerdia-logo-340x156.pngStefan Helander2022-05-16 10:11:202022-05-16 10:12:43Nagoya RB-400 – it just fell to pieces
I purchased a Nagoya RB-66 lidmount antenna mount from a seller on eBay. The product was new (not second hand used). After two weeks use, I noticed the screws had started rusting.
Dear Nagoya. The antenna mount is supposed to be used on cars. Cars are outside all year around, in all kinds of weather conditions. Why don’t you use stainless steel screws? Yes, I know they are more expensive.
I replaced the two screws and the four small hexagon socket screws (they also started to rust) with stainless steel ones so hopefully my problem is solved. But quite annoying. I think a product supposed to be used on a car should be able to handle all year weather conditions and it is quite annoying having to replace parts before being able to use the product properly.